Mandalay. Myanmar

Upon arrival in Mandalay we headed straight to the U Bein bridge spanning Taungthaman Lake. At 1.2km long and constructed around 1850 it is believed to be the oldest and longest teak bridge in the world and a very popular tourist destination. U Bein bridge is actually quite some distance from the centre of Mandalay so visiting it on your way in or out is the most practical option.

Whilst we had two nights in Mandalay the reality is we had one day and it is a city that deserves more, nonetheless we managed to cram a lot in.

With a fairly civilized start time of 8am we headed straight to the Ayeyarwaddy River where we hired a river boat and took a trip up to the village of Mingun. Mingun is a small village but home to several great attractions. We started at the monumental Mingun temple begun by King Bodawpaya in 1790, it would have been the largest in the world but remains uncompleted due to an astrologer of the time claiming that once completed the king would die. Just a few hundred meters up the road is the gigantic Mingun Bell, weighing 90 tonnes it is one of the largest ringing bells in the world. Finally there is the Hsinbyume pagoda, a brilliant white pagoda with a distinct style it allows access to the higher parts offering great views of the surrounding area, the Ayeyarwaddy River and back to Mandalay.

Apart from having to cross several sets of planks to board our boat and the children insisting on practising their titanic poses on an unrestrained bow, a trip up the Ayerwaddy with the breeze blowing through is a great way to spend some time. Taking in the people who make the river home be it on boats or in flax huts along the river banks.

Upon our return to the riverside port in Mandalay we found the customary riverside seat for lunch. This particular restaurant had the first ‘western’ menu options we had encountered on our travels so the kids, possibly a little rice and noodled out went for burgers. Burgers in Mandalay weren’t what they expected and we will leave Myanmar with a Beef Burger and a Fish Burger the only two food orders left uneaten!

Like the majority of Myanmar, Mandalay is awash with unique pagodas a few which couldn’t be missed. The afternoon saw us take in Kuthodaw Pagoda, home to ‘the worlds largest book’ with Buddhism’s sacred text inscribed on 729 marble shrines erected uniformly across an area of 13 acres, neighbouring Sandumini Pagoda which follows a similar pattern with 1774 marble shrines inscribed with commentaries on Buddhism’s sacred text and the Shwenandaw Kyaung Temple. Recognised as the most significant of Mandalay’s historic buildings it was originally part of the Royal Palace of King Mindon. Reconstructed as a monastery on it’s current site in the mid 19th century it is built entirely of teak with intricate wood carvings and really is an artistic masterpiece. The final visit of the afternoon was to the adjacent Atumashi Kyuang Temple, significant for it’s deviation from traditional Buddhist architecture the original temple was considered one of South East Asia’s most magnificent buildings. It’s original 9m high Buddha included a 28.8 carat diamond on it’s forehead which disappeared under British annexation in 1885. The temple was mysteriously burnt down in 1890 while acting as a British military barracks it’s charred remains where left largely untouched until it rebuilt according to it’s original plans in the 1990’s.

After a short afternoon’s rest we trekked down to the Ayeyerawaddy Riverview Hotel for a rooftop view of the sunset, well worth the visit with happy hour including free cocktail of the day and non-alcoholic punch for the kids! Finally after sunset we made our way to the top of Mandalay Hill. Adorned with religious sites most visitors climb to the top of Mandalay in the heat of the day for sweeping views of the city and the sunset. We had been advised to visit at night and great advice it was, the lighting is spectacular, the temperature much cooler and vehicular access permissible.

Mandalay Hill effectively closed out our visit to Myanmar with a departure the following morning for Bangkok.

To those who have looked after us so brilliantly, Zaw, Thiri, Yeemon, Sai and Nyi Nyi, thank you so much, we are grateful and truly humbled.

We remember planning the trip and wondering if a week in Myanmar was too long, in short it was quite the opposite. This country has so much to offer, the people are wonderful, inviting, curious, kind, eager to learn and eager to please. There is so much more of Myanmar to see, she has captivated us and we will be back for sure.

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